At the age of 14, Buffalo Bill Cody gained fame for completing one of the longest rides in Pony Express history. Arriving at the end of his run, little Will discovered that the rider he was to hand off to was dead. Will continued his ride and ended up traveling 322 miles in 21 hours and 40 minutes.
While traveling on Highway 287 between Muddy Gap, Wyoming and Jeffrey City, we came across the site of the old Split Rock Station, one of the Pony Express stations where Buffalo Bill switched horses during his famous ride. Split Rock is named after a mountain that has a large cleft. This mountain served as a landmark for folks traveling the Oregon Trail, which also runs right through this area.
Originally called the Emigrant Road, the Oregon Trail was the main route of westward expansion from 1812 to 1869. An estimated 500,000 people journeyed past here in search of new lands and new lives in the West.
Because of its unique shape, Split Rock was a well known trail landmark and navigation aid. Emigrants were guided by the rock for an entire day’s travel from the east. It remained in view behind them for another two days. From Split Rock, it was about six days to South Pass, the gateway to the Great Salt Lake Valley, California’s gold fields and the Pacific Northwest.
Emigrants on the Oregon and the Mormon Pioneer Trails coming from Devil’s Gate, 12 miles east, often camped below this point on the Sweetwater River where good grass and water were available for stock. West of here, ruts carved in the rocks by iron wheeled wagons are still visible. Generally, Mormon emigrants tried to stay on the opposite side of the river from the main trail to avoid confrontations with others also heading West.
In 1844, James Clyman recorded this in his journal about this spot.
“(August) 17. Smokey But the sun rose over the Eastern Mountains in its usual majesty. Some recent Signs of a war party of Indians ware discovered yestarddy which caused some uneasiness…roled up the Steam on the South side…the most rugged bare granite rocks lay along the North side close to the water…saw some fine herds of Ibex or wild sheep some of which were taken and found to be very fine eating…This region seems to be the rufuses of the world thrown up in the utmost confusion.”
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